Thursday, 17 November 2011

Welcome to the Parade - Louis Vuitton SS12

Now before you start yelling at me because it's two months after the SS12 shows, and I should have written up on them long ago (which I agree, I should have) but we had to write a catwalk report for university.  We had the choice of about five catwalks which were streamed and then we had to go away and write a report.  I chose Louis Vuitton because it was extremely beautiful and also had a lot of different silhouettes to talk about.  I quickly laid it out last night so it would look pretty for my portfolio, so without further adieu... 


Fashion takes a fairytale ride around the merry-go-round at Louis Vuitton, reports Nicola Shepherd.

At approximately 9.59am, the Louvre's Cour Carrée doors closed, leaving a few unlucky and confused fashion journalists on the outside looking in.  The lucky few that did make it past the doors and onto the front row of the Louis Vuitton show were the likes of Alexa Chung, Poppy Delevingne, Terry Richardson and Olivia Wilde.  Once everyone was seated, the curtain rose and the story could begin. 

A glisteningly white carousel revealed itself accompanied by light fairground melodies, unveiling Marc Jacobs’ entire collection for Louis Vuitton sitting upon horseback.  This fashion fairytale scene was quite a contrast from the last show back in February, where Jacobs delivered fetish on a plate.  “The circle has turned once more and arrived at a place of enjoyment, gentleness, joie de vivre and love,” explains Jacobs, not giving away whether this is the last collection on his Louis Vuitton circle after rumours about his departure to Dior. 

Each model dismounted her horse to give us a closer look.  The collection was pretty and prim but by no means twee.  Influences from the fifties were evident in the prom style, organza dresses, whilst the colour palette was dramatically softer than his Fall collection.  Candyfloss, lemon, peach and mint were enough to set your taste buds tingling, whilst the injection of navy, ice white and black stopped the collection looking sickly sweet.  The biker was the go to jacket at Louis Vuitton, where Jacobs had given it a candy revival.  Traditionally made from leather, on this catwalk the rules were bent as it was made in tweed and crocodile skin. 

Daisies were appliquéd all over several dresses, creating a refreshing 3-D twist on the favoured print, whilst oversized doily lace collars gave a granny chic appeal to the collection.  Dip-dyed ostrich feathers cascaded down macramé overskirts, as well as on tweed biker jackets.  Bags were covered with the iconic LV initials, printed or beaded into the leather.  Whilst the feminine fifties silhouette was in place, some dresses featured exaggerated empire lines creating an illusion of a pregnancy bump.  Pointed court shoes lived on for another season, this time in pastel tones with oversized metallic straps and silver toecaps.

The hair was held in soft chignons and finished off with a glittering Alice band.  Jacobs took inspiration from Sophie Dahl by taking her doll-like beauty and incorporating it with his final look, using dewy foundation, barely there blush and pretty pale pink lips. 

Long time pal and supermodel Kate Moss descended from her noble steed and walked the walk in a crisp ivory macramé daisy empire line dress, which ballooned from the bust.  Ostrich feathers covered the dress, hanging from the hemline moving in fluid motions.  “She asked to be in the show and she’s a very dear friend, so I was happy to oblige,” said Jacobs.  As the carousel spins for the final time, Marc Jacobs takes a bow.  Could this be his final curtain call for Louis Vuitton?

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