Oh, Dior...

Dior released a short film to accompany their new J'adore eau de toilette frangrance over the weekend.  It features fashion icons from the past Grace Kelly,  Marlène Dietrich and Marilyn Monroe.  The clip which lasts 90 odd seconds, takes us through the Galerie des Glaces at the Château de Versailles and into the where Charlize Theron greets the icons whilst getting ready for the runway. 

Sara Bro-Jorgensen Interview

Many of you may have read that for a university project we had to interview a fashion designer.  Well I chose Sara Bro-Jorgensen, who was lovely in the flesh.  Check out my interview piece below, plus my work laid out for Surface magazine.

(Ignore the top-right image, it doesn't print blurry)

SCOUTS HONOUR

Vauxhall Fashion Scout ‘One’s to Watch’ winner combines a love of culture and digital print in a ‘playful’ womenswear collection. 

“It’s the only place to be in Dalston,” Sara says in her European accent, motioning around Dalston Superstore.  She’s sat at a table in this café by day, bar by night, with it’s retro 70s print wallpaper and ‘Now! That’s What I Call Music’ vinyl records hung above the bar.  The night before lingered in the atmosphere, mixing with the smell of a full English hangover cure, coffee and grease.  Sara searched through her Marc Jacobs clutch for tea money, revealing a small bag full of coins.  “It’s really expensive, funding a brand.”

Denmark-born Sara Bro-Jorgensen never knew that her career path would lead her to fashion design, let alone win one of Vauxhall Fashion Scout’s ‘One’s to Watch’ awards.  The 30-year-old designer (dressed in all black and sipping at a cup of English tea) sits reminiscing how she got to this place in her life.  “I started on a photography course in Denmark, but I ended up doing Knitwear at the Royal College of Art in London,” she laughs nervously.  Fashion seemed inevitable for Sara having sewed clothes for her sisters and herself, but photography proved too much of a passion to push aside. 

Jorgensen managed to combine both her loves using the art of trompe l’oeil.  “I find it fascinating” she says.  She becomes even more animated as she begins to talk about her inspirations for the new collection, shown in Paris.  “I was building upon on my S/S 11 collection.  I was inspired by early 20s silent movies, working in prints of tuxedo jackets onto my garments.”  One of her favourite garments from the collection is a Goth black midi dress, with a trench coat graphic printed on both sides of the piece.  It’s a daring look, something that Sara’s woman is.   “She’s someone who is playful and not afraid to wear what she wants.”

Sara is very cultured, having lived in Denmark as a child she moved to India with her parents and sisters when she was a teenager. Once she had finished her A Levels, the designer took time to travel and gain work experience from the likes of Adam Jones, Dior’s knitwear designer.  After six months in Paris she ended up in Berlin, “it’s a great place to live,” she says laughing.  Jorgensen returned to education, earning a BA in Fashion Textiles and a Masters in Knitwear.  On her recent adventure back to Paris, Sara met Emilien Bouglione, owner of Cirque d’Hiver, describing him as a “90 year old man with an amazing sense of style.”  He invited her up to his apartment, where there was champagne and laughter. 

Looking around Dalston Superstore, Sara begins talking about what London fashion is to her. “It’s a lot of things, young designers, very creative and it’s always pushing itself to the edge.  That’s what makes London so special”.  The designer expresses the importance of travelling the world and picking up inspiration from different cultures.  “I also took the American Indians’ way of decorating themselves with beads and used it in my A/W 11 collection.”

Sara is optimistic about the future, although a little nervous even so.  “I’ve started applying for funding for my line, I hope to build the business up that way.  It’s a hard industry but if you have the passion, you’ll thrive.” 

The show must go on.

"Is it possible to hate the sinner but love the clothes?"

This was a quote from earlier in the week from a journalist of the Evening Standard, after the Galliano story unveiled.  Today, Dior were scheduled to show in Paris, and that they did.  CEO, Sidney Toledano gave a touching apology on behalf of "Monsieur Dior", for the disgraceful comments John Galliano had been found guilty of saying.  

The Christian Dior continued with as much grace and class as any other year.  The collection was more daywear than evening wear, something the brand have wanted to work on for a few years now. The collection included hooded cloaks, full pleated skirts and silk bloomers paired with bows.  Here are some of my favourite looks from the show: 

The contrast of colours and fabrics make this ensemble. The olive green silk skirt with pleats give that innocent school girl image as well as catering to Dior's history - New Look 1947.  I love the over-the-knee boots too.  

A monochrome floral dress complimented by aubergine coloured socks and a midnight blue handbag, stop the outfit from being too basic and washed out.  

The autumnal colours in this outfit are gorgeous.  There's also a hint of spots, which I've tipped in my Fashion Forecast to be a big trend next season.  

I like this outfit although felt it was a little out of place.  I would wear this during the Spring/Summer season as sheer chiffon doesn't offer much warmth.  Maybe this is meant for those first few autumn days where the weather is between seasons?

What's the verdict, love or loathe?  Personally, I think Dior have done it again and they've done if different too.  

Oh Galliano, how the mighty have fallen.

I've grown so used to hearing Galliano's name over the Fashion Week period that I was shocked when I heard his name and the word 'fired' placed together.  After his drunken anti-Semitic remark 'I love Hitler', he has left Dior designer-less and disappointed.  Fashion might well be about making a statement but this was a step to far.  

Galliano's words really were poisonous. 

For us fashion lovers, the last time we'll see Galliano at his best will be on the Parisian catwalk this Friday (4th) for the Christian Dior show, but even then, he wont be showing his face at the end.  

How do you guys feel on this, were Dior right in firing Galliano or not? 

I Spy! Haute Couture Princess Dreams

Christian Dior has wowed us once again with their haute couture line.  Full skirts, romantic stories and a lot of vivid and deep rouge colours adorned the Parisian catwalk. 

This one dress reminded me of the famous Disney scene in Beauty and the Beast, when Belle walks down the stairs in a shimmering gold dress.  

This trend definitely has appeal.  With prom season only around the corner and weddings always happening, high-street chains may take the trend and adjust it to suit their stores target market.  

Will you be changing the LBD for a more divine gown this season?  

For now I say Nay, although find me a prince and a ballroom and I may change my mind...

Spring and Summer Unwrapped: For Men

A dear friend of mine requested that I give a menswear run down for this coming season.  Although i'm not 100% fluent with menswear, here's some trends I've noticed from the S/S 2011 runways. 

1.  Monochrome - Dior and Calvin Klein both showed collections with a minimalistic and monochrome theme. 

2.  Print - D&G showed their collection featuring checked white and blue pyjama style trousers as well as a Hawaiian style shirt.

3.  Women had the 70s, the men have 80s - Acid wash was seen all over the Dries Van Noten runway.

4.  Neutrals - Hermes showed neutral camel and off-white tones in their collection.

5.  Sheer Knit - Iceburg had several sheer knit jumpers in their collection, slightly reminiscent to one of the ladies trends - Erogenous zones?

Some key pieces to have in your wardrobes boys - 

1. Denim shorts - just above the knee and best when distressed (to you non fashionee's that means something along the lines of ripped)

2.  Suit Jackets - the catwalk has been swarmed with them and although they are an essential to any mans wardrobe, it seems this season, the more unique the jacket, the better.  

3.  Acid Wash Denim - Whether it's a denim jacket or jeans, you need it in your wardrobe.  

Greasers stole my heart.

I never really understood why the film 'Grease' was called 'Grease' until I sat in my fifties fashion lecture.  From that moment onwards, the fifties became most definitely, my favourite fashion decade.  Up until the 50s Fashion was all about Paris alone, but with the rise of teenage rebellion saw America being taken over by the subculture of 'greasers'.  If I was around during the 50s, i'd definitely have dated a greaser.  I was always born to be American.


As well as the subcultures, the 50s brought us the only decade that Christian Dior lived and worked in fashion.  Sadly he died but his legacy has lived on to this day and Paris owes him big time for that.


What's your favourite fashion decade and why?

Shoulder Pads

Shoulder pads were widely considered a metaphor for power, with women earning suffrage in 1918; this was just the beginning of a beautiful friendship.  In the late thirties, Jacques Heim was one of the first of designers to introduce the shoulder pad into twentieth century fashion, with his three pocket blue tweed tailored jacket.

During the forties women’s wardrobes became less dainty and more masculine with the utility suit consisting of a ‘boxy’ shouldered jacket and skirt made traditionally from herringbone tweed.  When Christian Dior launched his New Look in 1947, shoulder pads had fizzled out of fashion. 

The eighties, a decade of power dressing, New Romantics, stretch dressing and sportswear sees the revival of the padded shoulder. Pop culture saw Joan Collins in Dynasty with abnormally large shoulders and it wasn’t long for the trend to take on.  Joanie told The Times that the renaissance of shoulder pads by Valentino and Versace was a “radical change” and “more flattering than an Italian waiter”.  By the end of the decade stuffed shoulders were no longer just designed to shape a garment, but became, as Collins once said, a monster fashion statement.  Detachable shoulder pads meant that women could sew shoulders into any garment they fancied, from T-shirts to pyjamas.  Women enjoyed how padded shoulders created a silhouette, which smoothed out postural imperfections, acting as a non-permanent form of cosmetic surgery. 

New designer on the block, David Koma, has revolutionised the pronounced shoulder.  Featuring asymmetrical shapes rather than the typical ‘boxy’ shape we are accustomed to.  Koma has given a fresh stamp to the outdated trend throughout both his S/S and A/W collections.  Rihanna has recently been seen in a figure hugging David Koma LBD, which featured rounded, pronounced shoulders with a circular tangerine and noir pattern.  As well as Rihanna, other popular icons such as Beyoncé and Cheryl Cole have also sported Koma’s designs, proving that when it comes to 21^st century shoulder pads, David knows best. In the words of Joan Collins, “welcome back, dear friends.”